What makes a better baselayer for women?

Your baselayer is the foundation of your layering system, and since it’s the one layer you’re always wearing it’s arguably the most important one to get right.

Sitting next to your skin, it’s the piece of clothing you’re most likely to notice if it’s uncomfortable - whether that’s the feel of the fabric, the fit or the seams.

You’ve probably experienced one (if not all) of these problems with a baselayer top or technical t-shirt at some point. And you won’t be alone – we’ve spoken to countless women frustrated by something on this list.

The number one complaint? Fit.

For many active women, getting a top that fits is a nightmare. If you climb, paddle, carry a heavy pack or are simply strong (god forbid!) you’ve probably got decent muscles in your shoulders, upper back and arms. But more often than not, women’s tops are patterned for narrow shoulders and slender arms - taking their cue from fashion proportions and shapes rather than truly designed for active women.

The imperfect solution is going up a size to get enough space in the shoulders, but that usually results in the rest of the top hanging off you in a frankly unflattering impression of a sail flapping in the wind! It’s not just an aesthetic issue though: you need space in your shoulders to allow you to reach up (for a hold) or forward without being restricted.

 

Maybe shoulders aren’t the problem for you, if you’re curvy with a fuller bust and wider hips then you need baselayers with seams that add shaping at the bust, waist and hip. This is where it becomes obvious if the pattern has been taken from a men’s style, because the shoulders will drown you, but the bust and hips will bind.

Not only does the shape need to work for your body, but it also needs to be designed for you to move in, not just stand still with your arms by your sides. That’s where an underarm gusset (a panel of fabric under the arm that allows the arm to lift without pulling the body out of position) comes in. The added bonus of using a gusset is it eliminates seams from the armpit, which can chafe and hold onto odour. (Fun fact: while fabric can have an antimicrobial treatment applied, sewing thread can’t – so seams can often be the source of stubborn smells).

When you try a baselayer top on, always check what happens when you lift your arms or bend to touch your toes. Even something as simple as a body length that’s a touch short can be a constant irritation, pulling up out of your harness or riding up under your pack leaving your lower back exposed to rubbing.

Not all fabrics are created equal

If you’re going to wear something next to your skin, then you want it to be soft and comfortable. The last thing you want is a plasticky, sticky feeling – a trap many synthetic fabrics fall into. But it doesn’t have to be this way; with careful yarn selection and considered construction, it’s possible to find synthetic fabrics that feel comfortable and work hard to keep you that way by wicking sweat away from your skin faster than any natural fibre could.

Features and functionality

You might think that a baselayer doesn’t really need many features, and in many ways you’re right. What few features it does have should be practically unnoticeable, like flatlock seams that don’t chafe, and a print inside the neck rather than a scratchy, irritating label. 

It is possible to add functionality to a baselayer in a discrete way, that doesn’t interfere with how it feels but extends its useability across a range of activities and environments. For example, adding thumb loops that are low profile and don’t create a gap, so you don’t notice them unless you need them. A small detail (overlooked by many brands) is an opening in the back of the hood to pass a ponytail through. If you have long hair, then getting it trapped down the back of your neck when your hood is up can be incredibly annoying. Nobody wants to be getting tickled when they are trying to concentrate on their next move!

And finally, if you’re going to add a pocket to a baselayer then it had better be useable – there’s no point if the zip is covered by your rucksack hip belt or sits underneath your harness and rubs. You probably don’t want to put your phone in a baselayer pocket (as it’ll be heavy enough to pull it out of shape) but having your suncream, energy gel or sweets to hand at all times is definitely a bonus.

Why we made the Soltera collection

Yes, there are a lot of baselayers out there already, but there is also room for improvement – otherwise why would so many women still be struggling to find baselayers that work for them?

By considering each factor from a women’s perspective (fit, fabric, features and function) throughout the design and testing process, we’ve come up with the Soltera collection. We hope it will improve women’s comfort from the baselayer out.